Tucked into the foothills of the Alps in northern Italy is the Oasi Zegna nature preserve, 100 square kilometers of mountainous land blanketed by half a million trees. Company lore holds that the founder of the luxury label that shares his name, Ermenegildo Zegna, planted the first one there in 1910. A century later, though Zegna HQ is in Milan, the wooded oasis serves as a spiritual center for artistic director Alessandro Sartori.
“Oasi is not just a place but a mindset,” he explains—both a source of creative inspiration and a reminder of the company’s obligation to preserve nature. The Oasi Zegna capsule collection is the distillation of that philosophy. The cashmere that’s a cornerstone of the fall lineup comes directly from Mongolia and is transformed entirely in-house—from spinning and weaving to knitting and sewing—into finished garments. When spring 2024 arrives, linen from Normandy will get the same treatment. By the end of that year, 100 percent of Oasi Zegna fibers will be traceable. It’s a noble pursuit, but it wouldn’t matter much if the clothing didn’t deliver. Thankfully, Oasi Zegna’s sumptuous sweaters, unconstructed overcoats, and voluminous trousers also embody a design ethos that syncs seamlessly with how we dress these days.
“We all want something that is more comfortable, more real, less rigid, more adaptable to different kinds of bodies and situations,” Sartori says. To get there requires stripping away everything but the fundamentals. Though Oasi Zegna clothes are created in the same ateliers (often with the same techniques) as the brand’s impeccable made-to-measure suits, you won’t find traditional tailoring here. Instead, “you reduce the number of elements to put together a silhouette and go into something new,” Sartori continues. “Let’s call it elevated workwear, elevated utilitarian.”
An overshirt, for instance, pulls off the double act of fitting like, feeling like, even standing in for a blazer. Pair it with those generous trousers and Zegna’s Triple Stitch sneakers and you’ve got a casual, considered uniform you can wear for (nearly) any occasion. Each new release from Oasi Zegna—Sartori thinks of the project as “a big movie that we are building or a book with different chapters”—is designed to strengthen that uniform.
“I like to look cool with a simple silhouette,” he says. “That means special garments. You have four pieces, right? They must be masterpieces.”
Jonathan Evans is the style director of Esquire, covering all things fashion, grooming, accessories, and, of course, sneakers. He lives in Brooklyn with his wife and son. You can follow him at @MrJonathanEvans on Twitter and Instagram.
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