Tudor’s success has been slightly odd. Namely, the brand has been on a run since 2018, when their Black Bay GMT provided Rolex style from a Rolex brand but for significantly less money; and when COVID hit and those Rolexes were trading many multiples over sticker, Tudor sales only continued to go up. Their success is directly correlated with disappointment with their more premium, famous parent brand; and comparing their upcoming range with that from Rolex, that’s not likely to change any time soon.
Starting with the Clair de Rose, this small women’s watch features a circular case, a rich blue dial, and an all-steel construction, including the integrated bracelet. It’s simple, refined, yet athletic, appealing to many, including men who want a sports watch look without the bulk, bravado, or budget concerns. This model is an excellent option for that demographic.
Next is a new, monochrome take on their signature Black Bay, offered with two metal straps or a “don’t-call-this-an-Oysterflex” rubber strap. While it lacks the character of the more retro-inspired Black Bays, its black dial, white hands, and clean all-steel look create a professional, classic watch that will undoubtedly be popular. Comparatively, Rolex’s current Daytona releases make it astonishing to think these two brands are connected.
Speaking of the Daytona, Tudor also announced a very Daytona-esque Black Bay Chrono Pink, featuring a black bezel and subdials, a steel frame, and a light pink dial. As an owner of a pink Nomos Club Campus, I appreciate pink watches, but I’m uncertain how well this will resonate with Tudor’s customers. The color combination feels a bit outdated, yet it remains a clean, pleasant watch.
Still colorful but not as subtle is Tudor’s first entirely gold watch, the Black Bay 58 GMT. With an olive green dial and bezel set against a yellow gold case, it’s far from subtle. However, the army color and well-balanced dial ensure it isn’t overly garish. Despite the price jump from their steel options, this yellow gold watch feels mature, elegant, and masculine without being ostentatious—more than can be said about many watchmakers, including Rolex.
Saving the best for last, the Black Bay 58 GMT might not be the most technically impressive or surprising watch of the show, but it’s the only one I’d consider buying. In a smaller 39mm case, it features the classic Black Bay look with a “coke” red and black dial, resulting in perfection. Simply put, I doubt the entire Rolex group will release a better watch anytime soon. And if they do, it’ll probably be through Tudor.
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