Raman Kalra is the founder of The Watch Muse blog and has kindly agreed to share some of his articles with us here on Quill & Pad.
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The Rolex Air-King has been a model in the Rolex lineup since 1945, but the most significant change to the watch came in 2016 with the release of ref. 116900. The model strayed away from the simple look, small form factor that we had grown accustomed to, becoming one of the more unusual offerings from the brand.
The Air-King definitely divides opinions, and I’m one of those that doesn’t understand it. Here’s why.
Rolex Air-King ref. 126900
Brief History
The Rolex Air-King was released at the end of WWII (ref. 4925), along with a range of “Air” models by Rolex: Air-King, Air-Lion, Air-Tiger & Air-Giant. Just over a decade later, in 1957 it was updated to the ref. 5500, and this is the model that spent over the next 30 years being what we knew as the Air-King.
1963 Rolex advert for the Air-King-Date
Rolex Air-King ref. 14000 from 1989
It featured a 34mm diameter case size and Oyster bracelet, but unlike its siblings it never held a chronometer certification. This means you end up seeing “Precision” written at the bottom of the dial on vintage Air-Kings rather than “superlative chronometer certified”.
Between its initial release and today, there have been countless small variations over the years. The addition of an “engine turned bezel” to give consumers a halfway point between a smooth bezel and a fluted bezel; various dials, including the infamous partnership with Dominos; and, in 1989 with the ref. 14000, the addition of 3-6-9 Arabic numerals
There are a lot of intricacies during the rich history of the Air-King that’s worth whole post one day, but here I’m focusing on the release of the modern example in 2016: Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 (2016-2022).
The 2023 ref. 126900 has been updated with a 70-hour power reserve Caliber 3230 movement, crown guards, and lume filled ‘6’ (rather than polished 6), wider bracelet links, and an improved clasp.
The Air-King ref. 116900 completely broke the old trend of what the Air-King was. It grew in size to 40mm, gained a unique dial (we will get on to this) with green printed Rolex branding, Arabic 3-6-9 numerals separated by minutes numerals, and Explorer 1 hands.
Rolex Air-King ref. 116900 (photo courtesy Watchbox)
On top of this, it used a Milgauss case bringing it non-magnetic properties, but also the other pros and cons such as thickness. You may love the unusual, bold look of the watch and that is great. I like the fact people feel different things towards different watches. It brings variety and is a reflection of personality.
However, the Air-King does not make sense to me and it might be the most slapdash (I couldn’t find a better word) Rolex out there.
Here is why.
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