Sotheby’s, Tropical Watch, Eric Wind
As watch lovers, we are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available. Each Friday we share five standouts with you.
The best watches are defined by their era, yet somehow remain timeless. This week, we’ve found five watches that manage exactly that, from genre-defining sports watches, to elusive conceptual references that seek to push boundaries. Watches from the neo-vintage era are emerging as prime examples. Whether it’s exceptional craftsmanship or historical significance that you’re after, we’ve something for you here.
The Rolexs are beautifully aged, but exceptionally clean. The Royal Oak is complicated and sharp as a tack. The Patek, classic. And the Piaget is probably one of those watches we will all look back at and think, “I should have grabbed one of those back in 2024, when they weren’t so damn pricely!” Of course, we know better than to make such predictions on value—there is no crystal ball—but the recent trends suggested by the spring auction season do seem to point to that funky gold Piaget.
-
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1A
The Nautilus has become the archetype of the high-end steel sports watch, and for better or worse, the face of Patek Philippe for many enthusiasts. While many may be familiar with the modern 5711, and its successor, the white gold 5811, the collection as a whole enjoys a rich heritage that includes some remarkable references.
The reference 3800/1a seen here is one such reference. The Nautilus embraced a trio of sizes heading into the 1980s, and the 3800 clocked in at 37.5 mm in diameter, a substantial reduction from the origina 41 mm reference 3700. This generation also took more liberties with its dial configuration, and hosted non-color matched date discs for a period, adding another interesting element to its personality. The 3800 wears exceptionally well given its size, and is right on the modern day trend of smaller case sizes for all wrists. If you like the Nautilus but are looking to stand apart from the crowd, the reference 3800 is the way to do it.
Learn More
-
Rolex Submariner 16800 COMEX
The reference 16800 Submariner represents a transition period for Rolex, eventually leaving behind the matte dials and printed lume of the older four-digit references, in favor of glossy dials and hour markers with white gold surrounds. The 16800 is unique as it sits in the gap between those two periods, with features from both eras. This reference was the first to receive a flat sapphire crystal, meaning it looked a bit more modern right off the bat, and the water resistance went up to 300 meters for the first time. This is also when Rolex added a uni-directional ratcheted rotating bezel to the Sub. But the early references as seen here maintined the matte dial with painted markers that feels so vintage.
The 16800’s relatively small production window, and its unique representation of this transition period for Rolex, make it a desirable reference on its own, but a glance at the dial here will tell you this is no ordinary 16800. COMEX or “Compagnie maritime d’expertises” is a French diving outfit that has been working with Rolex since 1970 (after their involvement with the SEALAB project). COMEX commissioned watches from Rolex for use by their divers, often with experimental features such as helium release valves that had been developed for the Rolex Sea-Dweller during SEALAB. COMEX watches were never offered for sale commercially, and each had a marked caseback signifying its commission. This 16800 is one such example that falls into the early production of the reference with a matte dial, making it all the more desirable.
Learn More
-
Rolex Milgauss Reference 1019
The Rolex Milgauss has a fascinating history of development for the somewhat niche engineering field. The watch was built to withstand the magnetic fields that scientists would be subjected to, as elements in the escapement were sensitive to such forces until relatively recently with the development of a-metallic hairsprings and other synthetic components. Prior to these developments, the solution was to encase the movement in a faraday cage within the case, providing protection up to 1,000 gauss, hence the name of this watch.
The reference 1019 Milgauss is the second generation of the watch, and gets its most demure presentation even to this day. This vertically brushed silver dial feels sterile in nature, and becomes the perfect setting for the reserved use of red at the tip of the seconds hand, as well as in the signage at 12 o’clock. The overall effect is subtle, but powerful, and captures the spirit of the collection in its simple, direct approach. This example, which dates to 1966, features a carefully polished case to preserve the original lines, and a well preserved riveted bracelet that exhibits little in the way of stretch.
Learn More
-
Piaget Protocole Onyx
Piaget has expressed their ethos across generations of diverse designs, each showcasing a deft hand at capturing the spirit of an era. From the Polo to the Altiplano, icons are strewn throughout the brand’s history. But some of their best work can be found in unexpected places, at the junction of Piaget’s metal and stone work, as well as in it’s significant contributions to horology. The brand’s jewelry watches have been inspirational for over half a century thanks to some unforgettable bracelets and dials, and one such execution that brings these elements together is this Protocole.
The Protocole dates back to the early ‘50s, where it showcased the then new 9P ultra-thin movement. The collection has seen a diverse range of dial materials and bracelet executions, but none more impressive than the finely woven yellow gold example seen here. The painstakingly constructed bracelet drapes like silk, and makes just as much of a statement today as it would have in the ‘60s when it was released. A black onyx dial sits within the Clous de Paris patterned dial and case, providing a dramatic moment of contrast.
Learn More
-
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD2 Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Audemars Piguet has a substantial history of creating some of the most memorable perpetual calendars in existence. Their early work in references like the 5516 carried over to a new generation of movements, and eventually into a relatively new called the Royal Oak with the reference 5554-25554. The first QP (short for quantième perpétuel) Royal Oak was remarkable for maintaining the same dimensions as the time-and-date reference 5402 at a mere 39 mm wide and 7.5 mm thick, setting the tone for how Audemars Piguet would approach the complication for generations to come.
In 2018, Audemars Piguet revealed the future of the Royal Oak QP in the RD2, a prototype showcasing the brand’s new 5133 perpetual calendar movement measuring just 2.89 mm thick. The RD2 would evolve into a production ready reference (26586TI) by 2021 in full titanium measuring 41 mm in diameter, and just 6.2 mm in thickness. The weight? A feathery 75 grams. This immensely impressive watch was limited to 200 units produced, and remains as impressive as it is elusive to this day—with a price tag to match.
Learn More
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller.
Credit: Source link