Welcome to a special Watches and Wonders edition of Dialed In, Esquire’s column bringing you horological happenings and the most essential news from the watch world. As the show takes place in Geneva, we’ll keep you up to date on the biggest makers’ biggest releases of 2024.
It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is well and truly upon us, as evidenced by the fact that it’s time to talk about Rolex and yet another slate of surprises. Last year, we got some unexpected color and pattern with pieces like the “Puzzle Dial” Day-Date (known to fans as the “Emoji” for the 31 of ’em that pop up in place of the actual date) and the “Celebration” Oyster Perpetual, otherwise known as “Bubbles.” Then there was the unexpected use of materials—a titanium Yacht-Master!—and even a whole new watch in the form of the dressy 1908.
This year, we’re still seeing some surprising color, but Rolex is flipping the script. Before Watches and Wonders kicked off, rumors were swirling about the GMT-Master II—namely that we were about to see a black-and-red “Coke” bezel for the stainless steel version. Turns out, fans will have to keep holding out hope on that front. Instead, the Crown decided to take the black-and-gray bezel that proved so popular on the gold GMT and drop it onto the steel version. It’s a subtle, tonal approach that seems tailored to real life instead of Instagram. Because while that color combo may not be the kind of thing that stops folks mid-scroll, it’s exactly what a lot of guys would love to look down and see on their wrist every damn day. You can get it on an Oyster or a Jubilee bracelet—a difficult choice if ever we’ve heard of one.
The Deepsea in gold.
When it comes to new metals on old favorites, this time around it’s 18K gold on the dive-ready Deepsea. Paired with a blue lacquer dial, blue Cerachrom bezel, and even blue lume, the effect of all that gold is undeniable. This thing is an eye-grabber of the highest order, especially with its robust 44mm diameter. You could take it with you to the depths of the ocean, should the fancy strike; it’s rated to a whopping 3,900 meters. But if we’re all being honest with ourselves, this watch feels less like the one you wear searching for sunken treasure and more like the treasure itself.
A very fancy riff on the Cosmograph Daytona.
Speaking of fancy watches: the Cosmograph Daytona got gussied up this year. Two new versions feature white gold, diamonds, and mother-of-pearl dials and sub-dials. One, on an Oysterflex bracelet, is a panda. The other, on the three-link Oyster bracelet, is a reverse panda. Both are opulent and interesting, blending all the sporty heritage of the Daytona with hefty dose of preciousness and taking a watch that was already a status symbol to an entirely new level.
The 1908 and its spectacular new dial.
More traditionally dressy is the 1908, which launched just last year. For 2024, it’s getting more intricate, with a platinum case and a guilloche rice-grain motif on the icy blue dial. The sense of movement, depth, and dimension that dial treatment lends the watch is something to behold, and solid evidence that despite the clean, somewhat minimal lines of the 1908, there’s a lot of ground left to explore.
The Sky-Dweller in gold.
Rounding out the offering? Even more gold! First up, we’ve got the Sky-Dweller in yellow and Everose gold, both with a Jubilee bracelet (it’s the first time the watch has been offered with the Jubilee in precious metal). The Everose version is more subdued, with a slate dial that plays nicely with the pinkish hue of the case and bracelet. But for our money, the glitz and contrast of yellow gold and a striking white dial just can’t be beat.
The 36mm Day-Date in Everose gold with a blue-green dial (and diamonds).
And, finally—didn’t we say there was more gold?—there’s a quartet of Day-Dates. You’ve got the 40mm in two iterations: Everose gold with a (very cool, and very new) slate ombré dial that darkens at the edges, and white gold with a “pearlized” mother-of-pearl dial that comes from “the oldest and noblest part of the oyster shell,” according to Rolex. Those two are joined by a couple of 36mm versions. The Everose gold one has a blue-green dial and a bezel set with 10 baguette-cut diamonds, and its yellow gold sibling features a white lacquer dial.
In all, despite the GMT rumor mill missing the mark, it’s another impressive—and sometimes unexpected—lineup of new releases from the Crown. In fact, just taking it all in is enough to make you thirsty. Maybe a Coke will do the trick—though it looks like we’ll have to wait until next year to see.
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