Our captain, Ali Aker, manoeuvres his ship dexterously, bringing us safely into shallow bays and taking time to position so that we are always moored in the clearest, greenest patch of water.
“It’s about going back to a simpler, more elegant way of travelling,” says Danish entrepreneur Claus Thottrup, who owns Satori with his wife, Jeanette. Inspired by childhood sailing holidays, Satori was conceived of as an extension of their acclaimed Tuscan retreat, Borgo Santo Pietro.
Thottrup, who was actively involved in the design of Satori, wants to give guests a more intimate Mediterranean experience, whether sailing in Greek, Turkish or Italian waters.
“When you see dolphins jumping through the waves, it’s very different if you see it from a few metres away or from five decks above the water,” he says. A smaller ship doesn’t just let you explore smaller bays and ports that larger vessels can’t access, it allows guests to connect with local communities more meaningfully.
“Because we only have five cabins we can replenish stock as we go, sourcing produce from local fishermen and helping local economies,” Thottrup says. “You realise that beyond the Amalfis and Positanos, these areas are home to lots of little local communities, where life is always focused on the water.”
Life aboard Satori unfolds at a leisurely pace as we explore some of the islands closest to Athens, often starting the day with a swim in a deserted bay. Sailing late in the season, we are spared the heavy traffic of the summer months. “I love to come here at the beginning or the end of the season, in May or October,” Thottrup says. “The weather is still warm, but the experience is much more pleasant.”
I’m delighted with the collapsible stairway that extends from the stern almost to the waterline, making it easy to go for a swim. And the longer I stay on board the more clever design touches I discover, such as downlights built into the boom that bring extra illumination to the midship area.
Perhaps the most enchanting thing about Satori is that you are always looking out at sea – even if you are brushing your teeth. When you pull the handle on the bathroom mirror it swings open to reveal a window that gives you a view across the waves.
When the wind rises one day, the crew hoists the sails and we experience the thrill of riding the waves the old-fashioned way, changing our course to suit the wind. It makes for an exhilarating arrival at Hydra, the island beloved of singer Leonard Cohen and writers Charmian Clift and George Johnston. We glide into our berth just before sunset, like pigeons coming home to roost.
Hydra in the height of summer is a heaving mass of tourists. This evening just a handful of other visitors are strolling the picturesque port, exploring its pocket-sized boutiques and galleries. Bells summon the faithful to church and the island’s famous mules are being led home by their owners. We meander around the quiet streets until, as the streetlamps glow into life and the waterside restaurants slowly fill, we wander back towards our floating home.
From a distance, we can see locals out for their evening strolls, sussing out the boats that have moored for the nights. Inevitably, they ignore the larger vessels and stop to admire Satori, drawn not just by the lanterns the crew have hung to guide us home but by the sleek elegance and personality of our little schooner.
Satori, it appears, wins hearts wherever she goes.
The writer was a guest of Satori.
Need to know
- The five-cabin Satori is available for exclusive-use charter between May and October.
- A week’s charter – including eight-person crew, use of water toys and cinema nights – is between €100,000 and €110,000 ($166,700 to $183,300).
- Food, beverages, fuel and overnight marina stays are extra.
- See satoriyacht.com
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