Unlock the Editor’s Digest for free
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
We’ve all seen a friend or colleague inadvertently downgrade his suit with a naff tie or take the shine off a good pair of shoes with threadbare socks. Nowhere, though, is a lack of regard for finishing touches more apparent than when it comes to bags. Not a day goes by when I don’t see a smart professional toting a tired-looking, nylon-and-webbing-strewn rucksack. Quite apart from the fact that a rucksack’s straps ruin the shoulder pads of a suit or blazer, pairing a sports bag with smart clothes is the ultimate in sartorial dissonance. You’re much better off choosing a bag you can carry in your hand – either a holdall or a tote. It won’t chafe or misshape the shoulders of whatever you wear with it, and it looks suitably grown-up.
“Buying a bag is quite an intimate purchase,” points out Rupert Shreeve, creative director of Bennett Winch, the British luggage brand founded in 2014. “It’s the thing you carry your life around in – so what are you going to put it in? What that bag looks like is quite a big tell.”
Size seems to matter more than ever too. “There’s definitely a trend towards bigger bags for men at the moment,” says Shreeve, “probably because our lives today are all so busy, and so full of stuff.” A good-sized tote or carry-all is the practical solution – especially if you can find one that’s smart enough to flex between the office, the gym and a stylish 48 hours away. (Keep in mind that carry-alls have always been the bag of choice of elegant men too. Steve McQueen was a carry-all man.)
Hermès’s iconic Haut à Courroies – its first-ever bag, designed to carry a saddle and riding boots – starred on the men’s AW23 catwalk and is perhaps the archetype for a luxury, go-anywhere, do-anything “man bag”. It’s part tote, part holdall, part briefcase, in colours including chestnut, green and glossy black full-grain calfskin, with polished hardware.
My own day-to-day bag is similarly versatile: a black suede Utility tote by Australian brand Haulier, which is reinforced with tan leather straps. It accompanies me to meetings, the supermarket and everywhere in between, and its neutral colouring makes it extremely easy to style. Haulier’s creative director, Jeremy Hershan, launched the brand with a range of Utility totes in canvas in 2020 (followed by suede models a year later), and they’ve been a Haulier staple ever since.
“At the time I was using vintage tool bags I’d picked up on my travels, but I couldn’t find anything new that combined a luxury craftsmanship lens with real simplicity,” he says. “I wanted to create something durable, but also refined, with quality in the details.”
Investing in a bag can give the rest of your outfit a lift. Take Loewe’s refined taupe-leather oversized weekender, or one of this season’s Puzzle totes with new, enlarged proportions in gloss black-and-tan calf, or subtle shades of umber and hunter green. Bags like these express personality, but they’re still understated.
Meanwhile, Berluti’s brand-new Toile Marbeuf collection, which features both a holdall and a tote rendered in intricate printed canvas and the brand’s signature patinated Venezia Palmelato leather, is more statement-making. These are not designs for shrinking violets, but the collection’s warm brown tones sit nicely with classic colours such as navy, grey and taupe. “There’s definitely some fun to be had in contrasting a playful bag with a serious look,” says Hershan.
At Bennett Winch, “all of our bags are built to do a specific job”, says Shreeve. “We design to meet a clear brief and you get the aesthetic of the bag for free, once we’ve solved the problem.” The brand’s new Cargo bags, for instance, “are designed to give you absolutely massive capacity for the lightest possible weight”, while the Commuter is another good case in point. “The idea was to create a weekend bag, gym bag and work bag all in one,” explains co-founder Robin Winch. “It’s got compartments for your laptop, for shoes, gym gear and a wash bag.” A recent waterproof suede version has added a touch of luxury to the range. “Most people would assume you need to be delicate with the suede,” says Shreeve, “but it’s moss-backed and surface-treated, so it’s as rugged as anything else we make.”
Whatever bag you choose, there’s one thing to keep in mind. “If you’re going to carry a bag, it needs to be full – not for show,” says London-based style photographer Alex Natt, who’s rarely seen without two or three bags slung about his person laden with cameras, film rolls and light meters. His carriers of choice are simple and functional from outdoorsy British makers like Brady and Billingham. “I like as little design as possible,” he adds. “Nothing ostentatious. Bags are meant to be used.”
That doesn’t mean you should entirely sacrifice style. A handsome bag speaks volumes. If you’ve taken the time to dress well, don’t fall at the last hurdle.
Model, Antoine Brabant at The Claw. Casting, Ricky Michiels. Hair, Roxy Attard using Bobbi Brown at Future Rep. Photographer’s assistant, Emilio Garfath. Stylist’s assistant, Zachary Sunman. Production, Hen House
Credit: Source link