Since the launch of the Rolex Pepsi GMT Master way back in 2018, the GMT Master line has exploded in mainstream popularity. Before we get onto the inevitable case of Rolex waiting times, thankfully, there are a number of more affordable GMT alternatives, but if you must have the real thing, then this buyer’s guard is the ace up your sleeve.
Rolex is a name that needs no introduction; the Swiss Luxury watchmakers have become emblematic of premium timepieces of the highest quality, seen adorning the boards at the world’s biggest sports competitions like Formula 1 and the Wimbledon Championships.
Look a bit deeper, and you’ll see there are two main camps: Classic and Professional. Classic is where you’ll find your sleek dress watches designed to turn heads at any formal event. On the other hand, professional is all about tool watches built for action – whether you’re a doctor, pilot, diver, or just someone who likes having a watch that could survive a nuclear blast.
An undeniable standout piece within Rolex’s revered Professional arsenal is the Rolex GMT-Master: a pilot watch that doesn’t just tell the time but multiple, simultaneously. It’s a serious favourite for watch collectors and enthusiasts worldwide, and with some designs and price points to choose from, there’s a GMT-Master for every wrist.
In This Rolex GMT-Master story…
Features of the 2024 GMT-Master II
Price: | $10,900 USD (~$17,150 AUD) |
Case Diameter: | 40mm |
Materials: | Stainless steel, Everose Rolesor, 18k Yellow Gold, 18k Everose gold, 18k white gold |
Functions: | Time, running seconds, date display, GMT functionality |
Dial Options: | Black, blue (white gold model only), meteorite (white gold model only) |
Bezel: | Bi-directional GMT bezel with bi-color Cerachrom insert |
Movement: | Rolex Caliber 3285 |
Water Resistance: | 100 metres / 330 feet |
Bracelet: | Oyster bracelet or Jubilee bracelet |
A Trip Down GMT-Master Memory Lane
There’s no denying the 1950s were a golden era for Rolex. Iconic releases like the Submariner and the Milgauss elevated Rolex to Beatles-level stardom, combining form with functionality, and the GMT-Master was no exception.
The first GMT-Master hit the market in 1955, catering to Pan Am’s many pilots who were after a timepiece that could handle dual-time functions. While today’s models boast modern luxuries, they still honour the legacy of the original pieces, down to the original design, with a 24-hour bezel and a dedicated GMT hand.
Evolution Highlights:
- Ref. 6542 (1955): Bakelite bezel, 50m depth rating, and three different calibres over its production run.
- Ref. 1675 (1959): Crown guards, 40mm case, and the first COSC-rated movement in the series.
- Ref. 16750 (1981): Quickset date function, Caliber 3075.
- Ref. 16700 (1988): The last of the original GMT-Masters, featuring a sapphire crystal.
The GMT-Master II – A New Era
Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II in 1982, and it came with a game-changing feature: an independent GMT hand. The first model, ref. 16760, needed a thicker case for this new function, earning it the nicknames “Fat Lady” and “Sophia Loren.” Later models like the ref. 16710 streamlined the design while keeping the independent 24-hour hand.
At the turn of the Millennium, the Rolex GMT-Master II earned a modern makeover. The ref. 116710LN debuted the Cerachrom bezel and the robust Triplock crown. The case got beefier with what Rolex fans call the “Super Case,” featuring larger crown guards and lugs. This generation also introduced the first black and blue “Batman” bezel and the return of the iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel on stainless steel models.
Buying New vs. Aftermarket
This is all well and good, but with Rolex waiting times reaching unprecedented levels, it’s not as easy as walking into your local boutique and saying, “One watch, please.”
If you have a purchase history with a local Rolex dealer, keep pestering them. Aftermarket prices may finally be stabilising after a consistent climb, but the prices are still 2x the retail of most current Rolex GMT models and it’s always better to build a relationship with an authorised dealer. Put your money behind them, don’t flip, and you’ll undoubtedly be rewarded.
Alternatively, buying vintage can save you some serious cash while still landing a top-notch Rolex timepiece. However, new models offer peace of mind regarding authenticity and condition. We advise choosing your second-hand dealer carefully and aiming for a box and papers, i.e., a full set.
Our Favorite GMT-Master References From Times Gone By
Rolex GMT-Master 6542: The OG that appeared on Pussy Galore’s wrist in Goldfinger (1955).
Released in 1955, the Rolex GMT-Master 6542 is a true icon and is often hailed as the original gangster of pilot watches; designed for Pan Am pilots, it became an instant legend. Its standout feature was the Bakelite bezel, which, while innovative, was soon replaced with aluminium due to durability issues.
With no crown guards and a 50-metre depth rating, the 6542 is a rare collector’s dream, cementing its status as a pop culture icon after gracing Pussy Galore’s wrist in the 1964 Bond flick Goldfinger.
Average Price: Between $25,000 – $35,000 USD depending on condition.
Rolex GMT-Master 1675: The first with crown guards and a 40mm case (1959).
The Rolex GMT-Master 1675 brought significant upgrades to the GMT lineup in 1959, adding crown guards and an expanded 40mm case for a heftier iteration. It featured a variety of dial options, from glossy to matte, and came with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets and stayed in production for two decades, making it one of the longest-running GMT-Masters.
The 1675 also introduced the small triangle-topped GMT hand, which evolved into a larger triangle in later versions. Its robust build and timeless design make it a favourite among vintage watch enthusiasts.
Average Price: Between $10,000 and $50,000 USD. Some full sets are available.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16760 “Fat Lady”: The thickest GMT-Master II with an independent GMT hand (1982).
Affectionately known as the “Fat Lady” or “Sophia Loren,” the Rolex GMT-Master II 16760, debuted in 1982 and was the first GMT-Master II as we know them today. Its thicker case housed the new Caliber 3085, an automatic movement that allowed independent setting of the 24-hour hand and the main hour hand – a groundbreaking feature at the time.
This model was only available in stainless steel and featured the now-distinctive red and black “Coke” bezel. But as production ended after just five years, the 16760 became a prized piece for collectors and Rolex enthusiasts alike, celebrated for its unique case size and pioneering dual-time capabilities.
Average Price: Expect to pay between $12,000 and $60,000 USD for something in mint condition or ultra-rare editions.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710: Versatile with multiple bezel and bracelet options (1989).
The Rolex GMT-Master II 16710, produced from 1989 until 2007, is renowned for its versatility and extensive variety of options. It offered multiple bezel choices, including the iconic “Pepsi” (red and blue), “Coke” (red and black), and an all-black version.
Available with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, the 16710 housed the reliable Caliber 3185 and later the Caliber 3186 movement. This model also introduced the option of tritium, LumiNova, and Super-LumiNova dials, for increased legibility for pilots at the highest altitudes – this technology has since become a standard for all contemporary releases. Even now, more than three decades after the 16710’s first release, this modern piece remains a beloved model for its classic design.
Average Price: Possibly on the more affordable end for the Pepsi, $12,000 and $18,000 USD.
Rolex GMT-Master II 116710: The first with a ceramic bezel (2007).
The Rolex GMT-Master II 116710 marked a significant evolution in the GMT-Master series when it was launched in 2007. It was the first to feature the nearly indestructible Cerachrom ceramic bezel, which offered enhanced durability and a modern aesthetic.
This model also introduced the Maxi dial with larger hour markers and hands, enhancing legibility for the wearer, whilst this piece’s sleek polished centre links on the Oyster bracelet and robust Triplock crown, seamlessly blended contemporary design with the GMT-Master’s storied heritage.
Under the hood, this Rolex GMT-Master II housed the Caliber 3186 movement, a first for Rolex with a parachrom hairspring that made this model resistant to shocks and temperature variations, adding precision and reliability.
Average Price: Again, a more affordable option expect to pay between $15,000 and $25,000 USD.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710: The latest in stainless steel with the new Caliber 3285 (2018).
First introduced in 2018, the Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 represented the pinnacle of the GMT-Master evolution, resurrecting the beloved “Pepsi” bezel in Cerachrom ceramic, but this time, paired with a stainless steel case and a Jubilee bracelet.
The cutting-edge Caliber 3285 movement powers the watch, boasting a 70-hour power reserve and Rolex’s Chronergy escapement for superior efficiency. With its long-lasting blue Chromalight lume and precision engineering, the 126710 delivered the latest in horological advancements, with a nostalgic nod to its predecessor; a must-have for modern watch aficionados.
Average Price: The retail price is $10,900 USD from an authorised Rolex retailer, but due to demand, you’ll be waiting years for it. If you want after-market, then expect to pay three times that.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR: The First ‘Left-Hander’ GMT-Master (2022)
The Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR launched in 2022. At the time, it was the first “left-hander” that Rolex had released in the revered GMT-Master series, with the crown and date window positioned on the left side of the case, designed specifically for left-handed wearers or those who prefer to wear their watch on the right wrist.
It boasts the familiar 40mm Oyster case, crafted from the brand’s proprietary Oystersteel. It’s fitted with a striking black and green Cerachrom ceramic bezel, earning it the nickname “Sprite” among collectors.
Average Price: Like its cousin above, the retail price is $10,900 USD and from what we hear, it’s easier to come by because of its unique configuration.
Unofficial Naming Conventions of the Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex enthusiasts and collectors have a knack for giving nicknames to their favourite models, and the GMT-Master II is no exception. These unofficial names often reflect the unique characteristics or colour schemes of the watches, making them more memorable and easier to identify. Here’s a rundown of some of the most popular nicknames:
Why These Nicknames Matter
These nicknames are not just playful monikers; they reflect the community’s affection and admiration for these timepieces. They also make it easier for collectors to remember ther specific models instead of referencing each release’s individual reference numbers, especially given the extensive range of GMT-Master II variations over the years.
Understanding these nicknames makes for essential reading for any Rolex lover, and can enhance your appreciation of the rich history and distinctive features the classic GMT-Master II collection.
1. Batman (Ref. 116710BLNR)
The “Batman” GMT-Master II is an instant classic, known for its black and blue Cerachrom ceramic bezel. Introduced in 2013, the “Batman” nickname comes from the colours associated with the iconic DC superhero’s costume (but presumedly not the later portrayals from Pattinson or Affleck).
2. Batgirl (Ref. 126710BLNR)
The “Batgirl” nickname is often used for the updated version of the “Batman”, replacing the piece’s original Oyster bracelet with a dressier Jubilee bracelet. Released in 2019, this model retains the black and blue bezel but offers a more elegant bracelet option.
3. Pepsi (Ref. 16710, Ref. 126710BLRO)
However you enjoy your sugary drinks, there’s no denying the Rolex “Pepsi” is the most iconic GMT-Master II of all. Named after the red and blue bezel that resembles the colours of the Pepsi logo, this model has been a staple since its introduction. The modern version, ref. 126710BLRO features a Cerachrom bezel and a Jubilee bracelet, combining vintage charm with contemporary technology.
4. Sprite (Ref. 126720VTNR)
The “Sprite” nickname refers to the left-handed GMT-Master II with a black and green bezel, a colour combination reminiscent of the Sprite soda logo. Launched in 2022, the ref. 126720VTNR is the first “left-hander” in the GMT-Master series, designed to be worn on the wearer’s right hand, making it a unique addition to the lineup.
5. Coke (Ref. 16760, Ref. 16710)
The “Coke” GMT-Master II features a classic black and red bezel, reflecting the colours of the timeless Coca-Cola logo. This version was popular in the 1980s and 1990s, with models like the ref. 16760 and ref. 16710. The Coke bezel offers a distinct alternative to the more common Pepsi and all-black options.
6. Root Beer (Ref. 126711CHNR, Ref. 126715CHNR)
The “Root Beer” nickname is given to GMT-Master II models with a brown and gold bezel. The original Root Beer models were vintage classics, but Rolex revived this look with modern editions like the ref. 126711CHNR (Everose Rolesor) and ref. 126715CHNR (Everose gold). These models combine a nostalgic colour scheme with contemporary materials and technology.
7. Fat Lady (Ref. 16760)
First introduced in the early 1980s, the “Fat Lady” or “Sophia Loren” nickname is an affectionate moniker for one of Rolex’s larger GMT Master II profiles. This model, ref. 16760, introduced a thicker case compared to its predecessors to accommodate the brand’s new Caliber 3085 movement, which allowed the wearer to independently adjust the GMT hand.
8. John Player Special (Ref. 126718)
Released in 2022, the solid gold John Player Special GMT Master was a welcome addition to the predominantly steel Rolex collection. We were lucky enough to get hands-on at Watches & Wonders in Geneva and were among the first to suggest that it had John Player Special F1 vibes. The black and gold truly is a spectacular colour combination.
Final Thoughts On Buying A Rolex GMT-Master
Whether crossing time zones or just crossing town, the Rolex GMT-Master is the ultimate cosmopolitan watch, combining functionality, style, and a bit of that James Bond flair… So join the ranks of GMT-Master owners, and remember – it’s always time for adventure.
In a very particular order, these are the ones we would be going for. Pepsi, Sprite, Bruce Wayne and John Player, playa.
Good luck!
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