The Watches and Trends We Hope to See in 2024

A Hot Market for Carl F. Bucherer

Even for those who claim to hate the brand, there is no debating that Rolex runs the show when it comes to the Swiss watch industry. According to Morgan Stanley’s latest annual report on the state of the market, Rolex’s sales alone — not including subsidiary Tudor — account for 29.2% of the market share. That’s greater than the next five best-selling brands combined. (Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Richard Mille, for those keeping score at home.) I’ve already spoken about Rolex’s acquisition of Bucherer, but one aspect of that sale that’s flown under the radar is the fact that The Crown also picked up watchmaker Carl F. Bucherer in the process. Add that label to the other biggie under its umbrella, Tudor, and that effectively makes Rolex a three-brand portfolio conglomerate.

Now, Rolex has stated that CFB will retain its current management and will operate independently, but I don’t think that stipulation matters much. Eventually, the word will get out to more people that Rolex owns CFB, and the typical hype that follows everything Rolex does will inevitably come calling, driving up demand and prices for Carl F. Bucherer watches. And frankly, the brand deserves the attention.

CFB, which has a history dating back to 1888, is rarely talked about in American enthusiast circles and sells nearly half of its watches in Asia. But the brand’s catalog shows a ton of potential, as it’s filled with proprietary technology, complicated movements and potentially popular sports models, like a carbon fiber flyback chronograph that could keep IWC up at night and a sharp dive watch with a COSC movement and a 500m depth rating that Rolex can sic on the Seamasters and SeaQs of the world.

Christopher Ward Joining the Big Boys

Christopher Ward

Few brands have been on as much of a tear as Christopher Ward in the past few years. The brand reinvented itself following the departure of its namesake from the company in 2020, coming out with a new logo, increased quality (and prices) and an endless parade of hit watches. 2023 was especially impressive for the brand. It launched a new line of integrated bracelet sports watches in The Twelve that became one of the most buzzed-about watches of the year. And it continued to draw plenty of attention and accolades for the Bel Canto, the sub-$4,000 chiming watch it introduced at the end of 2022, which won the GPHG “Petite Aiguille” award for the best watch priced between CHF 2,000 – 8,000, besting models from Tudor, Bulgari and others.