What is ‘stealth wealth’ fashion made popular by Succession – and how do you wear it? Channel HBO’s billionaire dynasty with ‘plain luxury’ from Hermès, Tom Ford and Bottega Veneta

In hit shows such as Succession, the billionaire media conglomerate-owning Roy family exemplify the subtle power of stealth wealth dressing.

As costume designer Michelle Matland explained ahead of the most recent third season, the clothes she dresses the family in – eldest son Kendall Roy’s nondescript cashmere Loro Piana baseball cap and Brunello Cucinelli tops, steely daughter Shiv Roy’s cashmere knits and wide-leg trousers – say much about who they are. Which is, people who have nothing to prove with what they wear.

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“In the case of the Roys it is blood lineage directly to the money, right? They were born affluent. They’ve only ever known that. And so for them, the posture of wealth doesn’t really mean all that much,” she told Vogue Australia. “They are not attempting to have affectation in what they wear, as we see in Logan and [his children]. Although they obviously have extremely expensive tastes.

“It isn’t for anyone else, or anyone else’s knowledge, that they do it. They know nothing else. But they are not posturing their money … they’ve got nothing to prove.”

This is why Logan Roy, the family patriarch, is often seen in grey shawl cardigans – when not in bespoke suits by the famed Savile Row tailor Leonard Logsdail – and on the flipside, why Shiv Roy’s striving husband Tom Wambsgans sports clothes that are a touch too flashy. Or indeed puffy.

In one episode, Tom memorably wears an expensive Moncler puffer vest and the youngest and naughtiest Roy child, Roman, asks him if he has stuffed it with his “hopes and dreams”.

Luckily it’s not only morally questionable fictional billionaires (and those willing to queue for five hours on the chance there might be something left in The Row sale) who can tap into the stealth wealth aesthetic. What’s more, with the spectre of another financial recession potentially looming, a return to quiet luxury, logo-free dressing and pieces designed to be worn forever may well be the direction that fashion is shifting. Essential elegance is making a comeback.

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“The Row makes simple wardrobe foundations feel luxurious and unique. The floor-length white duster coat paired with simple cotton shorts and the summer suiting were both highlights. Valentino’s neutral colour palette was a stark contrast to the bright fuchsia that has reigned supreme across red carpets since last season, and Maximilian Davis’ debut for Ferragamo was refined and high impact,” she added.

So how do you make this look your own? Page believes that when it comes to pulling off covert luxury it’s all in the little details, including unexpected accessories and investment timepieces.

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Naturally, only fellow connoisseurs will truly appreciate these rare, elusive and exclusive touches.

“It is considered very chic to dress in an understated and luxurious way. At brands such as The Row, Hermès and Loro Piana, everything is made with the best craftsmanship and most luxurious materials, yet nothing is branded. It is a thing of ‘if you know you know’ that shows more wealth than simply flaunting it,” says Tiffany Hsu, Mytheresa’s vice-president of womenswear and kidswear fashion buying.

As for what not to do when it comes to stealth wealth dressing, Hsu naturally advises against overstatement. But don’t be too plain either – there’s still plenty of opportunity for self-expression.

“Anything that is overly branded should be avoided,” she stresses. “The cuts and details are what really matters – these can be timeless but never generic. And if you are wearing jewellery it is never loud but kept simple and slightly hidden. Styling is kept classic with clean silhouettes, a minimal use of accessories, and no visible logos or recognisable patterns.”

The aesthetic works as well for men too. Indeed Thom Scherdel, menswear category manager at Browns Fashion, says it’s a major growing category for the retailer.

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“For menswear, this area of understated luxury is one of our fastest-growing departments, underpinned by the finest Italian craftsmanship,” he says. “It’s a subtle and timeless approach to dressing yourself where the wearer is confident that the only person that needs to know the brand is themselves, and others that are in the know of course.”

As for how to wear the look, Holly Tenser, Browns Fashion womenswear buying manager, says it’s about investing in classic, well-made pieces that will remain timeless, no matter how many times you turn to them. Oh, and a great coat.

“I think the key to this aesthetic is having a great neutral-coloured coat paired with bold accessories or beautiful jewellery that can instantly elevate a casual outfit. For those who still want more of a glamorous feel, shoes are always a great investment to keep an outfit more on trend,” she says.

Ultimately though, as Scherdel points out, there’s one essential factor in pulling off stealth wealth dressing: not caring how people perceive you.

“The secret to stealth wealth dressing is to impress nobody but yourself,” he says.

If in doubt just ask Logan Roy. If you’re game.